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Island Escapes

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We survived… a family holiday with my parents and Lexa – and 2 x 4 hour flights! Loved it, but also really glad that the trip is over. I missed home, my cats, lekker chips, pap & sauce, hearing South Africans talk and driving on the left of the road in a right hand drive vehicle.

Return to the Republic… goodbye Reunion

It was tough, but I would do it all again.

In the next few weeks I will tell you all about the museums, vanilla farms, waterfalls, towns and beaches we visited as well as what I thought about creole food. There will be tips on what to take and where to go as well as what to expect when you do a road trip.

I took along some products to test… because when you do a road trip your skin gets punished. One product in particular lived up to its promise – but you will have to wait and see…

I can’t even tell you yet what I loved most about the trip, I am just so tired right now… I just know that I took over 3000 photos and still need to sort through mine, my mom’s and still need to submit a travel insurance claim for my dad’s lost video camera.

It’s weird, it’s one of those destinations where not even the tourism site has a lot of info. Travel agencies still look at you… weirdly and all you can do is trawl a lot of accounts of previous visitors to this little island in the Indian Ocean.

So this is what I know, we are going and soon. We have a car and accommodation. I’m not sure if there is a festival on or not, because dates on it is sparse. I kind of have an idea what we will do and see – but I don’t have a 100% plan.

We are definitely seeing volcanoes

Saint-Denis

St Denis, the capital city, offers a number of cultural sites that I am keen to explore.

  • Musee Leon Dierx which boast an impressive collection that include works by Picasso, Gauguin and Cézanne.
  • Cascade du Chaudron – apparently the pool at this waterfall is bluer than blue.
  • Grand Marche – a market or 2 is definitely on the list.
  • Kali Kampal Temple (Hindu Temple)
  • Muséum d’Histoire Naturelle de La Réunion
  • Saint-Denis Cathedral
  • Vanilla plantation

2 volcanoes

  • Piton des Neiges – which has been inactive for a very long time. Maybe we will hike a bit here. There is also a biological reserve here.
  • Piton de la Fournaise – one of the world’s most active volcanoes (fingers crossed to see some lava from a VERY safe distance). Hiking to Furnace Peak…

Hellbourg on the edge of Cirque de Salazie

Rumour has it that it is being lauded as the “most beautiful French village”. The Creole architecture is apparently amazing here and I’m a sucker for architecture. We are also going to eat our way through the local cuisine in this little town.

What I’m really looking forward to is a cultural and gastronomic experience. So my research is taking me to all sorts of weird and wonderful pages.

Be on the lookout for my next posts about planning for our Reunion Island trip – everything from packing lists to places to see.

This is the story… I wanted to go on a 2 week trip to Cape Town with my parents next year. Then the drought persisted and well, it’s ugly when drought has you in its grip. I then suggested that maybe we go to Mapungubwe National Park in Limpopo as I know they haven’t been there before.

…but then the unimaginable happened. My mom and I both won a flight to Reunion Island! Ok, I will give you a minute to get your jaw back in place!

My mom has never been on a plane… has your jaw dropped again? She also has never been off this continent – other than a 4 day cruise. Totally ridiculous when I have traveled so much, right?

When I broke the news to my parents that my mom won a ticket and that I would pay for my dad’s flight I wasn’t sure if I would be able to convince them to come along… My dad I knew would want to, but my mom is a difficult old lady sometimes.

3 hours after breaking the news my mom said she will definitely be joining us – but my dad will just check his leave and depending when we can go… but he really wants to go!

Then we waited for the email from Reunion Island Tourism… and some good news, we could travel until next year sometime! I was on that booking email, paid the airport taxes and now I have to plan a holiday with my parents, hubby and the kid on Reunion Island! Super excited!

Luckily I have made an appointment to get Lexa’s passport done – for next week. So she will have her first passport stamp before she turns 2 or has a sibling!

Now the planning for a holiday on Reunion Island starts… well, it will after the mad holiday rush to get a bunch of work done.

I am probably more proud of these pictures than any other I have taken. Maybe it is the fact that it was of Maasai or that I sent them home with a token for their families…

The Maasai kept the Instax photos, but I get to keep these memories forever too.

I will never forget Fathima walking on the beach with just a month to go before her baby’s birth. The smile she gave when she thanked me for the photo she would be able to show her child one day ♥️

…and Stonetown! I wish I had spent more time here and could wander the streets to capture all the beautiful doors. I hope that I can return one day to finish this INSTAX photo project.

Plus when you take a bunch of photos you get to play with them right there on the beach 🙂

Oh and this is my black Instax Mini with its pink cover 🙂

Here it is, the post I’ve been wanting to write the minute we got back from Zanzibar…

We landed at the smallest airport I have ever seen. Smaller than the Maldives’ airport… and that should tell you that it is TINY! We all piled into busses to be ferried to the main building and had to grab immigration cards. Then we queued up to go through passport control. Then we hit the pavement…

We found our shuttle service and made the hour drive to Reef and Beach Resort.What should’ve been a 2 lane road was really 1.5 lanes wide and passing vehicles seemed to have a fast and loose rule of who chickens out first… At first I closed my eyes each time the driver overtok a vehicle, but soon realised that everybody has adopted this mad way of driving.

Finally at the hotel…

At the hotel we were checked in, shown our rooms and escorted to the dining hall. I will not forget the first meal, fish and crab – with a local version of vetkoek. I scoffed those vetkoeks down – no Marmite.

After lunch hubby thought it would be nap time but I dragged him to the bar on the jetty. We sat and watched the tide go out and kite surfers on the horizon – and finally the sun setting behind the palm trees. It was a beautiful sunset!

The next morning

The next morning we took an early morning swim and it was low tide. It is very weird to see the bay drain. It reminded me of when we were on Phi Phi Island (Thailand).

Then we got the bad news and I spent the rest of the day organising our return to South Africa.

Why we chose the Reef & Beach Resort…

Usually we would stay at 4 and 5 star hotels, but this time I wanted to be off the beaten track. This hotel, was off-off-off the beaten track. No other other hotels close by and very few beach walkers.

I really actually enjoyed staying at this resort. I don’t mind that it was Italian run, because it felt more rustic – and there were plenty of locals around.

 

I didn’t expect to see Maasai in Zanzibar, so it was a bonus. I first spotted a Maasai walking on our trip from the airport and then at the hotel.
The Maasai people, as you know, are known as brave warriors that would go as far as take a kill from lions. They are born hunters and learn to use quite primitive (but effective) weapons. Their traditional clothing always include red, but also some blue – and consists of 2 sarongs, a belt to hang their weapon from and sandals.
The first full day on the island, after we received the news of my father-in-law’s passing, I spent my time taking photos and chatting to the beach walkers. Then I met Ngulele, one of the Maasai. He noticed that I walked around on my own with 2 cameras and he stopped to ask if all was OK. I briefly chatted to him and expressed my wish to take photos of the Maasai at the resort – and asked if he could organize this. He quickly agreed.
That night I was sitting outside watching the sunset when he stopped to chat with me. He told me that he goes home once a year depending on when the low season is at the hotel. He usually only goes home for a month at a time. He said that most of the guys did the same and that we can take the photo the following night.
The following night they all arrived. The excitedly chatted to each other and loved that I specially asked to take photos of them. However, next moment one of the Maasai was snapping pictures while I got to be in the picture holding a traditional weapon. These pictures were taken after the sun set… so I’m super chuffed they came out so well!

That photo session with the Maasai, was the most memorable moment of the trip to Zanzibar.

After that I took photos of some of the Maasai (as I found them in daylight) with my Instax. A thank you that they could give to someone special at home.
It has been more than a month since I’ve seen the beach. Zanzibar feels like a lifetime ago, yet I’ve not posted all I want to tell.
One of the outings we signed up for was to tour a spice farm. It wasn’t a spectacular tour – but it was interesting. We arrived at one of these farms for lunch and was escorted into a half-closed structure and sat on the floor on grass mats with the food bowls in front of us. We all hungrily dug into rice, fish, a vegetable stew and chips.

Spices

I never wonder where my spices come from. I buy them in a bottle or packet at the supermarket – like any normal person would do. However, now that I’ve seen the spices in their natural growing form, I can appreciate the intricacies of the grow and harvest periods.
It was quite surprising to see just how ordinary some of the spices looked in their natural form – and how fragrant they were! They break leaves, branches and whatnot for you to smell… very interesting!

Butterfly Man in the coconut tree

The coconut part of the tour was my favorite. The Butterfly Man entertained the group with an ascend up a palm – whilst singing.
The Butterfly Man was quite an older gentleman, so his antics up a tree was quite astounding. He displayed great acrobatic skills and topped it off with a melodic tune.
After his performance we all received a coconut to eat and drink from… and as we all know, I love coconut!

What can you buy on your spice tour?

  1. Spices
  2. Teas and coffees mixed with spices
  3. Perfumes & soaps

Why you should go on a spice tour in Zanzibar

It’s not like you would be able to do spice tours in South Africa… and it is something different. I wouldn’t do it as a standalone tour, but would combine it with a Prison Island and Stone Town Tour on one day. The spice tour with lunch is about 2.5 hours.

Lastly, watch this video – narrow roads with action next to it!

Travel is what makes life exciting. The unexpected delays and surprises along the way make a trip memorable.

 

The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page. Saint Augustine

When I plan a trip I do my research. I have an itinerary of things and places I really want to see, but I leave time to stop and take in everything. I stop to take photos of anything that catches my eye…and sometimes hubby have to remind me we are catching a bus, train or plane.

In Zanzibar, what I haven’t told anyone, the day after we landed my father-in-law passed away. I spent half the day organising our return for a funeral. Once I knew I could get hubby home and what time we had left to explore the island I booked trips. I squeezed what I could…

Landed Tuesday, Bad news Wednesday and fly back Saturday

Jip, you read that right… we basically had 2.5 days in Zanzibar. We had travel insurance so I’m still waiting to find out what we will get back.

Excursions

  • Stone Town
  • Prison Island
  • Spice Tour
  • Safari Blue

We went on excursions for 2 full days. I was so jet lagged and emotionally drained but pushed to see and do as much as possible. I came back with just over 600 photos and some included the Maasai (whole other story).

To and from the excursions I snapped a few pictures.

 

What I liked about Zanzibar

  • It was laid back
  • Inexpensive
  • Friendly people
  • Beautiful sights

What I wish I could’ve changed

  • I wish I could speak Swahili, if I had my dad there he would’ve sorted me.
  • I wanted to ask the Maasai so many questions but simply ran out of time.
  • Stayed longer so I could see more and get to know the people better.

The traveller sees what he sees, the tourist sees what he has come to see. Gilbert K. Chesterton

There are so many day trips to choose from when you are on holiday in Zanzibar. There is Stone Town, snorkeling off Mneba Island, visiting a local town where they build Dhows and many more. However, there is one that everyone talks about…

Safari Blue!

Every tour operator will tell you that his Safari Blue tour is the original one, but most probably they are all the same. It is a full day excursion on a dhow or boat to a sandbank, snorkeling and then eating your heart out.

Some tour operators have their own snorkeling gear ready to go and others you have to stop at a local guy that has the gear. We take our own snorkels and masks… just saying, because some of the people that went on the trip struggled with the gear.

…and off we go!

We arrived at the boats around 10-ish (low tide) and had to wade through the water – and over sea urchins. Some of the women complained, but I thought it was awesome because I got to take this photo 🙂

…out in the big blue sea

I still think it is amazing that sandbanks appear at low tide in the middle of nowhere in the ocean – and I’ve seen it a few times. You can literally see the sandbank being swallowed by the sea as the tide rises…and it is amazing.

You never have to invite me twice to jump off on a sandbank for a swim and a fruit picnic. When I did all that I was in the water taking pictures of dhows sailing by.

…snorkel

I can snorkel, but don’t drop me off in the sea… I want to be close to sand. I have nightmares when I’m in the sea and can’t stand (thanks to a near drowning incident in Thailand).

Hubby dived off the dhow and snorkeled while I sat in the boat feeling a little green with camera in hand. I will still load the images on Instagram under the #ZanzibarGoddess tag.

400 years and a crayfish craving

Next up we saw the 400 year old Boabab tree on an island.I’ve seen some big baobabs, but this one, even fallen over, is HUGE! It even has a little dam in the middle.

Then we went off for our seafood lunch (on the same island). This was hubby’s only thing he wanted to do on the whole trip, eat crayfish. He ate 4 whole crayfish by himself!

The island life is for me

While everyone was shopping around and swimming I wandered around with my camera as per usual and snapped this image of fish hanging on one of the empty shops.

Gone shopping on the beach….

Look at the oar! Using materials that would’ve ended up on a landfill somewhere.

…and this is how a dhow looks with its sails down.

At the end of the day, as the sun barely punched through the clouds, we sailed to Zanzibar’s shore and made the hour’s drive to the hotel.

We booked a tour of Stone Town – but I was really disappointed in the guide. He literally ran a straight line and even with my requests of seeing more of the famous doors and sights he kept on running…

Stone Town is the old part of Zanzibar City. It has a maze-like narrow alleys lined by houses and shops. The architecture offers a nice mix of Arab, Indian, European and Africa – making it really interesting. Main building materials include coral stone, which after all these years are crumbling…seeing less permanent residents.

The buildings in Stone Town really are gems if you love photography. The doors of which I only saw a few and none were painted (sad face)…were spectacular. I love every door – even the simple local doors…but my heart leapt when I saw the really ornate Arab and Indian doors.

What to look out for when you are in Stone Town

  • Doors, beautiful doors!
  • Don’t lean on the buildings, they give off a dusty substance.
  • Don’t take pictures of the people…
  • Take lots of pictures of the buildings – they are really spectacular, but simple.
  • The streets are really narrow and bicycles and scooters share this with pedestrians.
  • The house where Freddy Mercury was born – I was not impressed.

Interesting fact from the locals…

  • They don’t offer money for those out of work. Old people and children do get some support from the government.

Jambo, jambo!