Living Our Sunshine with Susann Deysel
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Travel tips for Zanzibar

I recently traveled to Zanzibar with dear hubby. We thought 4 hours flying, beach, why not…

He who wanders around by day a lot, learns a lot.
Atangaye na jua hujuwa.
(Kiswahili proverb from Tanzania)

We booked an All Inclusive holiday through Mango and it was a really good deal. Plus it meant the Rand could do what it wants (and a certain president could flap his lips as per usual) and we wouldn’t have unforeseen exchange rate issues.

Money

  • Get US dollars – in small bills. $1 dollar notes are A-OK for pretty much anything tip related.
  • Even if you get quoted in Tanzanzian Shillings you can pay in Dollars and get change in shillings. Exchange conversions are sometimes a bit loose and fast.
  • Running out of Dollars and still want to tip? No problem, have your Rands handy. They love a R10 or R20 more than no tip – and it’s worth more than Tanzanian Shillings.
  • On Mango you also still have to buy your drinks and food in the air – and you pay in Rands.
  • Credit cards are handy at hotels but useless when you buy from the locals. You will also be charged a 5% transaction fee.
  • You can exchange money at the airport after landing… I don’t trust airport currency rates.

Not all tour companies are equal

We used 2 different tour companies and I can say without a doubt that some will herd you around like cattle and others will actually go the extra mile.

  • Speak to the Beach boys, sometimes they are licensed with licensed taxis and boats. However if they fail to deliver… and not licensed, you are screwed.
  • Do go on a Blue Safari. It is amazing! Check the weather. It is no fun on a dhow when it hops over waves instead of gracefully gliding.
  • Go off-menu for tours. Request a tour of a local village combined with a visit to a market.

Chat to the staff

When you are friendly to the staff they will share some local secrets… and let you know what to look out for or which trips are really worth the money. They will also tell you more about their customs and food without you having to ask.

I was lucky enough to chat to a Maasai named Ngulele who got his friends together for a few photos. These warriors still wear their traditional clothes, most don’t speak English – but… meeting these friendly Maasai was certainly a highlight of my trip. I will write a post on them – so look out for it! (The Maasai generally take on the role as security staff at hotels.)

Buying souvenirs

Negotiate. Always negotiate. When you buy more than 1 item informal traders will offer discount already.

Support the informal traders, they have the same stuff as the formal shops – and they are usually cheaper.

Other stuff to take on your Zanzibar holiday

  • Waterless hand sanitizer
  • or wet wipes
  • lots of it… pack it on outings even.
  • Sunscreen
  • Mozzie repellant
  • Shoes to walk over coral
  • Snorkeling gear

How would I rate Zanzibar

  • Compared to traveling to Thailand and Maldives, Zanzibar offers great value.
  • The beaches are OK once you get past the coral but Maldives’ beaches are much better.
  • However the people in Zanzibar are friendlier than Maldivians and they definitely don’t bug you to buy stuff the whole time like the Thais.
  • The Maldives is much further but prettier.
  • If I had to choose between Thailand and Zanzibar it would not be Thailand.
  • You can drink beer outside of the resorts in Zanzibar but in the Maldives it is a little more strict. In Thailand the party goes 24/7.

I really loved Zanzibar. It is a beautiful country with friendly people and there is a lot to explore and do. I would go back in a heartbeat.

Don’t set sail using somebody else’s star.
Asisa firie nyota ya mwenzio.
(Kiswahili proverb from Tanzania)

I will also share the items that was really useful on this trip. Like these:

  • I took a a 3/4 sleeve BOODY shirt and wore it almost all the time.
  • Ugly shoes that water just streamed out of – because my “plakkies” got sucked down by the sand and kept dismantling itself.
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Fathima on the beach with Instax camera
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Zanzibar: Fathima on the beach #INSTAX

Some stories from a trip need to be told separately. I didn’t walk around with all my cameras all the time, but when I did there were some amazing opportunities.

The journey that I have undertaken, meeting people from all walks of life and learning from them, has been my biggest achievement. Aamir Khan

I was walking on the beach with my FujiFilm (this camera has been to Europe, Egypt, Thailand, Mozambique and the Maldives) and Instax Mini when I saw Fathima picking up sea grass at around 6pm (low tide). She was etched against the sky and sea in her colourful garb and I asked if I could take a photo of her and in return I would give her a photo like the Instax photo I was holding.

Fathima held onto the instant Instax photo and smiled as she started appearing in the frame. Her smile widened and she said “this photo she will show to her baby one day and tell him/her about the day she had it taken”. By the time I took the digital photo of her holding her photo she was smiling from ear to ear.

I am glad I took my Instax to the beach so I could give her a special photograph for her baby.

I saw Fathima the last morning we were in Zanzibar. She was harvesting sea grass again and when she spotted me she waved and yelled, “Hello Susann, it is me Fathima”. I waved back and took a picture of Fathima etched against the sun.

I know what you think…

In Zanzibar the people do not have that much and I didn’t see many smartphones. This woman by chance stumbled on someone that just happened to have an Instax and could give her a photo on the spot.

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The perfect holiday plan for Zanzibar

When you play the flute in Zanzibar all Africa dances. (Zanzibar Proverb)

I’m going to shock you, make you want to climb in my suitcase and cry because you will be stuck in the middle of winter when I’m soaking up some sun – just keep reading.

Zanzibar here I come!

My husband’s birthday is coming up and to celebrate we are going to Zanzibar! We loved our island holiday in the Maldives so much that we wanted to do it all again – but somewhere different and close…and not Mauritius.

No matter how fast moonlight runs, daylight catches up. (Zanzibar Proverb)

We are staying at a very basic hotel right next to the water. We just want to sleep in the beach bungalow and the rest of the time eat, drink, swim and go on excursions. We aren’t those people that sleep off a babelaas until after lunch – we are out and about. Sometimes it is me dragging a sleepy husband out of bed to take a swim and walk around with a camera or it is husband wanting to eat.

I travel lightly…

This is the shocking part of my travel post – I only travel with carry-on luggage! I can pack for a 10 day holiday in a carry-on suitcase and take everything I need and come back with souvenirs.

I heard gasps of disbelief and jaws hitting the floor…

It is true, it takes some creative packing skills and planning to pack for a holiday in a small suitcase, but it takes away the stress of the airline “losing your suitcase” and you not having clothes. In my mind, that makes perfect sense.

I make packing lists – and I promise you, I have not forgotten a single thing I wanted to take. It is the best planning tool.

What am I most excited about?

Taking photos! Lots of photos will be taken. I want photos of Dhows sailing, some Masai etched against the blue water and Zanzibar doors.

I am also excited about the day we will be spending on a dhow sailing to 2 islands. I might get sea sick but I will take so many photos of that dhow it will look like the best thing I’ve ever done.

Then we are also going to Stone Town because I have this obsession about doors and photographing them with my Instax camera. I am drooling over photos of these Zanzibar doors and my husband has quietly resigned himself to his fate.

The water… I love the sea. I can stay in the sea for hours. I love to swim and luckily so does my hubby. (Have I ever told you that my hubby was a surfer in Ballito when he was younger?)

The only thing I hear my husband mumble is crayfish, seafood, swim – make it happen…and I will make it happen – in Zanzibar!

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Hello Male (Maldives)

Male is the tiny capital city of the Maldives. There are around 150,000 people on an island of almost 6 square kilometers. They are about 3 hours ahead of SA time and use both the Maldivian Rufiyaa and US Dollar as currency.

When I first said I wanted to stop over in Male to see the capital city of the Maldives, I got the dirtiest looks imaginable from my husband. Nothing about the city looks appealing on the internet and it doesn’t really have any major amazing buildings either. Not really a place for tourists – unless you are in it to get to know more about the people living in that country (that would be me).

The city is tiny with tiny streets that are lined with thousands of scooters – and the odd car between. It is a miracle that that there are any cars on the island, because our hotel was only about 1.5km from the harbour and it took more than an hour to drive with a mini microbus!

We took a nap on arrival and then went for a little walk in town. What was really noticeable was that people were just standing around on the street, sitting on scooters and we didn’t cross paths with another westerner. Shops and houses were squashed next to each other into little pigeonholes along narrow winding roads.

No matter where you walked from, you could reach the ocean within 30 minutes! The most surprising part, the dolosse that kept the coastline intact… a design from South Africa 🙂

During our 1 day, 1 night stay the city celebrated 50 years of independence. Male was decorated in white, green and red. That night fireworks lighted the sky. It was beautiful.

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Picnic on a small island in the middle of a big blue ocean

It has been a month since we arrived back from the amazing Maldives – and I have major withdrawal symptoms.

I am still flipping through the photos regularly and can remember every second of our time spent in paradise. One of my favourite outings was definitely to a “picnic island”. These islands are usually uninhabited but with some facilities for tourists. The cost of such and excursion can range to about R1500 for 2 people and it includes a water, food and transport.

When we arrived at the picnic island, I was off the boat like the Flash and ready to get into the water. We were in a group of about 12 people, so the island was really private. The word idyllic comes to mind when I talk about an island where there is very few people.

The island guides were really friendly and while we enjoyed some snorkeling they were fishing for lunch and unpacking the prepared dishes.

After about 3 hours of snorkeling, swimming and tanning lunch was served, fresh from the sea – and land. I have never had fish like the ones they served on this island, but it was soooooo delicious. They even gave us a little fish that was about 5cm long and it was really crunchy and salty – I didn’t eat the head).

The full meal was a nicely balanced meal – and I had seconds!

My view on going to faraway places is that if you go somewhere, you might as well spend a little more and explore a little more.

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Maldives is for everyone

I am having serious withdrawal symptoms from being on the beach. I am <<this close>> to packing my bags and move to Ballito (since I can’t afford to move anywhere outside Africa with the weak Rand)!

When I originally planned the Maldives holiday I had to stay within a budget. This meant that I couldn’t just use a travel agent and book a packaged deal. I really had to work for this amazing holiday…and I loved every moment of planning.


During the research phase I looked for accommodation that wasn’t in a resort, affordable and amazing. The answer that kept on popping up was Maafusi Island. What makes this island so unique is that it is currently the only non-resort island that you as a westerner can stay on.

Accommodation on Maafusi Island range from backpacker cheap and no meals included to full-board 4 star (didn’t see any 5 star). Even with the horrible Rand/Dollar exchange rate the rates of 3 and 4 star full-board accommodation compared well with prices I would pay in South Africa.

The only thing you need to know is that you will look far and wide for alcoholic beverages on this island… and that you can only swim in a bikini at designated bikini beaches.


We stayed at the Kaani Beach Hotel for 5 nights in the end and loved every minute of our stay. The hotel had a sea view and was only a minute’s walk from the swimming beach. The food was great, the rooms clean and the staff super friendly. The 5 nights, with all meals worked out to under R12,000 (and that included a 10% tip and all taxes)!


If (or rather when) I go to the Maldives again I would most probably stay on Maafusi again. I would recommend this island above a resort stay, else you might as well just stay at home and lock the doors and not experience the cultures and people of countries you visit.

Future posts you can look forward to:

  • Picnic Island excursion
  • Exploring Male, Maldives
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The Maldives on a budget – how we did it

Remember the days where you longingly looked at pictures of the Maldives sighing at the hefty price tag that would go with a holiday like that? I did the same. Really. Then when I started doing research on where to stay I stumbled upon info that suggested that resort stay is not the only way you can explore this magical beach destination.

My interest was piqued. I was hooked.

I excitedly told my husband that we will be going to the Maldives and I’m not hallucinating and definitely not delusional. We can afford it. We just have to compromise a little (or so I thought).

I booked at the lovely Kaani Beach Hotel on Maafushi Island for 5 nights and even with the weak Rand, it still sort of worked out the same as our usual Ballito holiday accommodation. To top it off, it included 3 meals a day and soft drinks. Once you have covered your bed, food and drink – the only thing you have to worry about is flying there.

Yes, the hotel didn’t have bells and whistles, but it was clean, comfortable and perfectly located a minute from the beach. The best part about our stay here, the staff. The staff was so friendly and they took an interest in you, greeted you by name and didn’t all even wear shoes. It was so homely, but yet private.

The food was really amazing and sometimes even a little too much, but I ate it ALL!

The beach on Maafushi Island was nothing to sneeze at. The sand was a soft, powdery white and the water gorgeously blue.

I know you have seen me writing about BIKINI BEACHES and wondering what I’m on about. Maafushi Island is a mixed use island with local inhabitants and now (for the past 2 years) tourists. Since the Maldives is quite religious, tourists have to abide by some simple rules to experience this paradise. On a bikini beach you can swim in normal swimwear, any other beach you have to cover shoulders to knees.

Bikini beaches are usually behind fences and open beaches (non bikini) out in the open. Resort islands (1 hotel on the island) usually means all bikinis and no cover ups.

I definitely miss this amazing view from our room at Kaani Beach Hotel!

 

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Paradise Found – Maldives

We have now been in the Maldives for 4.5 days… I think. I kind of lost track of time a few days ago.

I am so relaxed and tanned. The best part is we are here until the 9th!

I never thought I would come to the  #Maldives. Looking at the travel packages offered, I could not justify my love for travel with the price tag of a Maldives resort.

Then this year I got free tickets to fly to Singapore and next minute I knew I was eyeing the Maldives and started to do some research. I was surprised at the prices of the non resort hotels and right then I knew that was the place I would drag my husband to.

We were stuck in airports and planned for close to 19 hours, but it was worth it.  This was what people made me believe Thailand would be like…. They lied. Paradise is not in Thailand, it is in the  Maldives.

Do yourself a favour and use booking.com and skyscanner.net to check for cheaper flights and accommodation in the Maldives.

Maldives

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Exploring Beautiful Maldives

I am happy as can be on Maafushi Island in the Maldives. The sand is white, the water breathtakingly blue and the hotel amazing.

Maafushi Island

I chose to stay on Maafushi Island because I am not a fly 10000km and lock myself away from experiences kind of traveller.  I like to see how the locals live, observe their customs, talk to the people and just generally inquisitive.

So back to the island. It has only been 2 years since tourists could stay on an island inhabited by locals.  Maafushi was a test island and it seemed to take off in a big way as quite a few hotels have popped up. Previously you could visit for a day.

There is only 1 beach where you can swim in a bikini.  Anywhere else you have to cover up. In my opinion, a small price to pay for paradise.

Kaani Beach Hotel

I booked with Kaani because they offered a sea view room right next to the bikini beach and their rates really reasonable. We booked for full-board which means you get all meals at the hotel included in your rate.

I am loving the staff. They are all so friendly and ready to help with anything. James (Ahmed) welcomed us at the pier and makes time to chat to us everytime he sees us. Then there is Amix at reception that is so full of energy that I can’t believe he can sit still long enough to think. Panda with the “many girlfriends”  and all the other guys and ladies that makes this hotel really welcoming.

There is one thing that makes this hotel even more unique… Shoes are optional for everyone. It is an island hotel and this something that just makes it stand out.

I think I will be going home with a few extra kilograms thanks to the restaurant and kitchen staff. Every meal I have had was just delicious and it makes it hard to stop eating.

That is all for my first post all the way from the beautiful Maldives. Follow me on Instagram.com/susanndeysel for some awesome pics. Seriously…my Maldives pics are awesome!

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Joburg to Maldives to Joburg

It has been a trying week at work with campaigns and tight deadlines – but, I survived. Now there is only a few days left before we jet off to the other side of the world. It really makes it bearable to be at work knowing that I will soon have sunshine, warm beach sand and blue waters to calm my shattered nerves.

I'm having one of those weeks

This weekend we did a final pack for our Maldives holiday. We split clothes so that if a suitcase goes missing everyone still have clothes. When my husband came to my underwear he held it up and said “is this what you wearing to the beach, because if this is it – we are going shopping now”. He was holding up my very tiny Sloggy panties.

My husband’s face was preciously hilarious. Next time I will pack even smaller items.

Screen printing class by ZANA

There is the possibility of ZANA coming to Joburg in October to offer 2 screen printing classes (Saturday & Sunday). They only need 10 people per class – so if you are interested please visit their Facebook page and comment on this post. If you don’t know about ZANA, check out their website. 

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